The smell of sourdough reaches the street before the espresso machine does. At nada in Panjim, the capital of India's smallest state, bread bakes in the same space where baristas pull shots from Chikmagalur beans. A ceramics studio sits in the back. The founder, Aakarsh Choubey, named the place after the Sanskrit word for sound or vibration because he wanted coffee to be one note in a larger composition.
Anyone who has watched Sofia's specialty scene develop over the past five years recognises the pattern: coffee as one thread in a larger craft ecosystem, not an isolated product. The question both cities are answering is the same. What does it mean to build a coffee culture from the ground up rather than importing one wholesale?
Direct Sourcing as Identity
Goa's specialty cafés are building local pride through specific origin relationships. nada sources exclusively from estates around Chikmagalur, a coffee-growing region in Karnataka.
Indian coffee is having its own quiet moment, moving from being just commodity export to something people here are genuinely curious about and proud of.
Aakarsh Choubey
At alag., a café in the Siolim neighbourhood, co-founder Uddipan Sarmah sources from the Seven Sisters states of Northeast India. The current offering comes from Dima Hasao in Assam. Sarmah, himself from Northeast India, publishes a magazine about the region's culture alongside his coffee menu. The beans are not decoration for the reading material. Both are the point.
This philosophy mirrors what is happening in Sofia. Aroma Coffee, led by owner Georgi Gagov (who holds an SCA Roastery Diploma), has moved toward roasting from carefully selected green beans, treating origin and roasting craft as inseparable. Like Aakarsh's work with Chikmagalur estates, Aroma's approach reflects a broader shift: specialty coffee in emerging regions is not about importing a finished aesthetic. It is about roasters taking ownership of the entire chain.
Coffee as One Thread
Grind Bar in Anjuna has operated since 2021 as a vinyl listening room that happens to serve espresso. The café makes its own cashew milk and offers DJ classes. The La Marzocco machine shares space with turntables, and neither feels like an afterthought.
Coffee Culture, located inside The Unseen boutique hotel in Assagao, offers an omakase experience: a barista-curated tasting of Indian specialty coffee. There is also a 24-hour slow-drip cold brew and a bar outside with salsa dancing and cocktail classes.
Indiroom, which opened in inside the restaurant Pincode Bungalow, sources from Caarabi Coffee, a New Delhi roastery. Customers order food from the adjacent restaurant while drinking their espresso. The café and the kitchen are one hospitality concept.
This integration reflects how people actually live.
A coffee shop that exists only to serve coffee competes on extraction quality alone. A coffee shop that exists as part of a larger craft ecosystem competes on something harder to replicate: a coherent philosophy of making.
The Experiential Shift
The omakase model at Coffee Culture is a statement about what specialty coffee can be: not a transaction, but an education. The DJ classes at Grind Bar serve the same function. So does the alag. magazine about Northeast India.
alag. began with a simple intent: to offer care and warmth through our hospitality. The name itself means 'unique.' We never set out to be for everyone. What we hoped to build was a community: a small, real one, made of like-minded people.
Фото: Виктор Младенов
Uddipan Sarmah
This is the difference between a café that serves specialty coffee and a café that builds specialty coffee culture. The first requires good beans and a trained barista. The second requires a point of view about what coffee means in a specific place, for specific people.
The Advantage of Early Days
It's still early days, but that's also what makes it exciting; there's room to actually shape the culture, not just fit into one that's already set.
Aakarsh Choubey
Sofia is in the same position. The city's specialty scene is young enough that the people building it can still decide what it means. The cafés in Goa are not copying Melbourne or Tokyo. They are building something that makes sense for their region, their sourcing relationships, their customers. The bread bakes in the same room as the espresso machine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is coffee omakase?
A: Coffee omakase is a barista-curated tasting experience, borrowed from the Japanese dining concept where the chef selects the courses. At Coffee Culture in Goa, this means a guided journey through Indian specialty coffees, with the barista choosing which beans and brewing methods to present.
Q: Where does nada source its coffee beans?
A: nada sources exclusively from estates around Chikmagalur, a coffee-growing region in Karnataka, India. Founder Aakarsh Choubey has built direct relationships with specific farms over several years, focusing entirely on Indian-grown specialty coffee.
Q: What are the Seven Sisters states in Indian coffee sourcing?
A: The Seven Sisters are seven connecting states in Northeast India: Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, and Tripura. alag. café in Goa sources coffee from this region, currently brewing beans from Dima Hasao in Assam.
The Slowmade Letter: what happened in the city this week, gathered into one letter.
By subscribing you agree to receive the Slowmade Letter once a week at this address. You can unsubscribe with one click, at any time. How we handle your data
Analytics cookies
We use Google Analytics and Microsoft Clarity to understand which stories get read and how you move around the site. Nothing is recorded without your consent. The cookies needed to sign in always work. Learn more